House of DesNeiges understands that no one was made like the other, and chest and breast measurements or no different. The most influential part of the body, when it comes to bra measurements and bra fits, the rib cage is what determines your best bra fit. That’s why House of DesNeiges made a guide to explain bra fitting down to the bone!
1. Rib Cage Shapes (width)
There are two basic types of rib cross-sections that affect a bra’s fit: Flat ribs - the most common rib cage shape, and Barrel shaped ribs - more rounded than the average rib cage shape. Most bras are designed to fit best on flat rib, which have ellipses shape.
If you have barrel shaped ribs, the cups of a bra may tilt outwards, meaning that you need more depth in the centre than fullness tests suggest. Wires may dig in at multiple spots with the added curvature that typical designers and lingerie manufactures do not accommodate for.
If you experience these problems regularly, softer more flexible wires can help as they more easily move to suit the rib cage. If you’re a DIY junkie you can bend the wires to a curve to suit your rib cage shape better. Or if your a like to treat yourself House of DesNeiges carry soft wires throughout her entire Petit Four collection.
2. Rib Cage Shapes (vertically)
Vertically speaking, there are three basic types of torso: the straight up and down or tube shaped torso, the A shaped torso (which is narrower at the top and wider at the bottom), and the V shaped torso (which is wider at the top and narrower at the bottom). Most bras are cut for straight or V shaped torsos.
Because of this, if you have an A shaped or tube shaped torso, you may experience issues with bras tending to dig in at the bottom of the band only, and the only thing worse than a pain in the ass is a pain in the tatas. The bad distribution of breast weight can cause some fit issues in the cups as well.
When the band only fits at the bottom, and the top of it is loose, the wires aren't pulled across the body properly. Wires in bras are designed to be flexed a little when worn, so if the wires aren't flexed at the top, the bra can be unstable and there may be empty space in the upper/outer sections of the cup often referred to as gapping or extra pocket.
People with any rib cage shape may find themselves hooking bands unevenly to make the tension even again, though this only tends to happen with pronounced V or A shaped rib cages. Luckily House of DesNeiges designs bras with a wide flexible elastic band to allow give and pull in all the right places no matter your shape.
If you play a wind instrument, sing, do lots of intensive sports, or like to breath at all, you may wish to wear a stretchier band. A stretchier band will be snugly fitting when at a neutral breath, and will yield more easily to a full breath in. Check out the Petit Four collection for comfortable bra bands and lined with soft bamboo fabric too.